Royal Umber Crimson

The blue of European royal court dress and regalia from the late seventeenth century forward — the color of British peers' robes, French royal sashes, the lining of the crown-jewel cases. The color refers to a saturated, slightly violet-shifted blue with the matte finish of velvet or melton wool dyed to maximum intensity: deeper than cornflower, warmer than ultramarine, with the heraldic weight of a color reserved for monarchs and the official Crown.

Latin umbra, shadow. As a color modifier, umber implies a shadowed-and-Umbrian-earth-pigment quality, the visual register of Caravaggio-and-Rembrandt-umber hand-shadowed-and-Umbrian-earth-pigment Caravaggio-and-Rembrandt-and-Vermeer-Dutch-Golden-Age umbered-and-shadowed-and-deep-glazed surfaces under Caravaggio-and-Rembrandt-and-Vermeer chiaroscuro-and-tenebrist-and-glazed studio-window-light. Sits at the modifier-and-mood end of the grid, parallel to shade and gloom in usage.

From the Old Spanish cremesin, itself from the Arabic qirmiz — the kermes scale insect, dried and ground into a brilliant carmine dye prized in the medieval Mediterranean. For centuries the most expensive red on a draper's shelf, reserved for cardinals, kings, and the cloth that gave English the word crimson. Cooler than scarlet, deeper than rose; the color of pomegranate seeds and a serious occasion.